Saturday, October 10, 2009
Gators win the game finally
It is two in the morning, we had a great time at the game. Throughout the evening the skies were dark and threatening, it looked as if we were in for torrents of rain but amazingly just a few sprinkles. I am glad because guess who left the ponchos back in Gainesville? Here is a hint, it wasn't Jeannie. We have had a wonderful time and I want to tell you about some of the funnier events but it will have to be tomorrow. Most importantly the Gators have played five games and we (the mighty Florida Gators) are undefeated. In the world of college football fans that is what matters. Adios, no mas...no mas...no mas Buenos Noches all.
Friday, October 9, 2009
La Vie est Bonne
I know that everyone says a line outside of a restaurant portends good things to come. If the place is so busy that there is a long, slow moving line, the food served must be good. Okay, I get it. However, standing in line is one of my least favorite things. Come to think of it, I have never met anyone who said standing in line was one of their favorite things. I am sure they are out there. Hell, I even met a lady that was a big fan of Richard Simmons. Richard Simmons? She loved him, thought he was funny and could not get enough of the ingratiating little pest. I never again asked her another question, nor did I ever turn my back on her, just a little too scary and a little too far out there in the infinite. But, I digress.
Meanwhile back in line at Mother's Restaurant on this specific hot and muggy early Autumn night, we hear the first the low rumble of thunder, then feel the initial drops of rain as they began to fall. We are outside, there is a small covered porch where the first three or four people in line are huddled. When the rain begins, the original four people on the porch become eight or nine. All crammed together and trying to obtain some part of the small roof to protect them from what was a rapidly approaching line of thunderstorms. Then it gets better, the diners inside having completed their meals, (lucky bastards) come out onto the same tiny porch. They linger there while trying to decide whether to run to their cars or to return inside and wait out the rain. I don't care what you do, but pick one! Pandomonium is the order of the day. To quote our beloved leader, "never waste a crisis." In all of the confusion we slip inside with the diners that are returning to sit out the rain. Inside and dry at last, I look out through the glass of the door at the poor wretches still stranded outside subject to a driving, wind blown rain. Another prime example of survival of the fittest, or in my case, survival of the fattest.
We ordered Crawfish Etouffee, Fille Gumbo and a house Po-Boy sandwich. I learned several things, first Etouffee literally means "smothered." The vegetables are smothered in onions, okra and a sea food stock, which is ever so slowly reduced down to a roux. Rice and crawfish are added and New Orleans voodoo does the rest. Thats the best I can do, want more? Try Justin Wilson, wait a minute, that Cajun is dead. Oh well, then it is Google, Food Channel and ultimate Etouffee. Enough about food, everything was wonderful, more importantly Jeannie was estatic about the entire meal. Sometimes you just need to leave well enough alone, I think I will. We are back in the room. New Orleans on a Friday night and I am in my room and more content than I can ever recall. The title of this post is wrong it should be, La vie est magnifique!
Meanwhile back in line at Mother's Restaurant on this specific hot and muggy early Autumn night, we hear the first the low rumble of thunder, then feel the initial drops of rain as they began to fall. We are outside, there is a small covered porch where the first three or four people in line are huddled. When the rain begins, the original four people on the porch become eight or nine. All crammed together and trying to obtain some part of the small roof to protect them from what was a rapidly approaching line of thunderstorms. Then it gets better, the diners inside having completed their meals, (lucky bastards) come out onto the same tiny porch. They linger there while trying to decide whether to run to their cars or to return inside and wait out the rain. I don't care what you do, but pick one! Pandomonium is the order of the day. To quote our beloved leader, "never waste a crisis." In all of the confusion we slip inside with the diners that are returning to sit out the rain. Inside and dry at last, I look out through the glass of the door at the poor wretches still stranded outside subject to a driving, wind blown rain. Another prime example of survival of the fittest, or in my case, survival of the fattest.
We ordered Crawfish Etouffee, Fille Gumbo and a house Po-Boy sandwich. I learned several things, first Etouffee literally means "smothered." The vegetables are smothered in onions, okra and a sea food stock, which is ever so slowly reduced down to a roux. Rice and crawfish are added and New Orleans voodoo does the rest. Thats the best I can do, want more? Try Justin Wilson, wait a minute, that Cajun is dead. Oh well, then it is Google, Food Channel and ultimate Etouffee. Enough about food, everything was wonderful, more importantly Jeannie was estatic about the entire meal. Sometimes you just need to leave well enough alone, I think I will. We are back in the room. New Orleans on a Friday night and I am in my room and more content than I can ever recall. The title of this post is wrong it should be, La vie est magnifique!
Outbound to New Orleans
"Good Morning John,". "Hi Larry, are you on the road? I said, "Yep, we are about eighty miles from Gainesville." John Responded, "I just got off the phone with my brother Randy, his flight was cancelled due to weather and he is driving from Dallas to Baton Rouge." I had this telephone conversation with my friend John Morgan this morning. He was in Gainesville in his truck, I was on I-10 headed West for New Orleans and then on to Baton Rouge. Earlier John had spoken with his brother in the Dallas airport and learned of the flight cancellation. What struck me about this was how common it has become for us to be able to instantly communicate with anyone anywhere. I know I am old but damn it, it is still astounding . A phone smaller than a book of matches and not only can you talk, you can send pictures, movies, hell I don't know what else. Push a button and see it now. Magic it has to be magic.
We made it to New Orleans around four o'clock our time. Luckily we missed most of the rush hour traffic. For those of you familiar with New Orleans, we are staying about a mile from the Cafe Du Monde and Jackson Square. (Tomorrow I will try to post some pictures.) The Hilton where we are staying is an absolute bear to find. It is down a two way, single lane street with cars parking on both sides of the byway. You hide behind the parked cars and wait until the head-on traffic passes, then you seize the right of way and hope the other drivers extend you the same courtesy. We waited fifteen minutes while cars streamed through in the opposite direction. Madness, pure madness but having lived in Puerto Rico, I know sometimes all there is left to do is to laugh. I tried my best to see the humor in all of it....but I enjoyed swearing much more.
Alright, tonight we are off to a local eatery that has been recognized as having the very best Etoufee in America. The New York Times food critic said it should be a historical landmark and no one should be able to serve Cajun food that has not first eaten at "Mother's." Those of you that read our cross country blog this summer will remember that we have eaten here before. Unfortunately we did not know of their reputation for Etoufee. Worse yet, I talked Jeannie out of ordering it in favor of another dish. The food was exceptional. Indeed, everything was peaches and cream until we returned home and she watched the Travel Channel. They had visited several cities around the world each known for exquisite cuisine. They narrowed the dozens of location visited to five finalists. They then selected each establishment's signature offering. Yes indeed, when the announcer said the only restaurant in the South making the list was "Mother's Cafe" in New Orleans, we both sat up. You know how that is right? Hey look, we have been there! The feeling of goodwill lasted for about ten seconds, Then the food critic said to go there and not eat their Etoufee was criminal. Jeannie looked at me, and with that look I knew we were going back. And here we are.
We made it to New Orleans around four o'clock our time. Luckily we missed most of the rush hour traffic. For those of you familiar with New Orleans, we are staying about a mile from the Cafe Du Monde and Jackson Square. (Tomorrow I will try to post some pictures.) The Hilton where we are staying is an absolute bear to find. It is down a two way, single lane street with cars parking on both sides of the byway. You hide behind the parked cars and wait until the head-on traffic passes, then you seize the right of way and hope the other drivers extend you the same courtesy. We waited fifteen minutes while cars streamed through in the opposite direction. Madness, pure madness but having lived in Puerto Rico, I know sometimes all there is left to do is to laugh. I tried my best to see the humor in all of it....but I enjoyed swearing much more.
Alright, tonight we are off to a local eatery that has been recognized as having the very best Etoufee in America. The New York Times food critic said it should be a historical landmark and no one should be able to serve Cajun food that has not first eaten at "Mother's." Those of you that read our cross country blog this summer will remember that we have eaten here before. Unfortunately we did not know of their reputation for Etoufee. Worse yet, I talked Jeannie out of ordering it in favor of another dish. The food was exceptional. Indeed, everything was peaches and cream until we returned home and she watched the Travel Channel. They had visited several cities around the world each known for exquisite cuisine. They narrowed the dozens of location visited to five finalists. They then selected each establishment's signature offering. Yes indeed, when the announcer said the only restaurant in the South making the list was "Mother's Cafe" in New Orleans, we both sat up. You know how that is right? Hey look, we have been there! The feeling of goodwill lasted for about ten seconds, Then the food critic said to go there and not eat their Etoufee was criminal. Jeannie looked at me, and with that look I knew we were going back. And here we are.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
South Louisiana
I first went to New Orleans forty eight years ago. By going to New Orleans, I was living the dream of many young men of my generation. Since first learning to read I had wanted to visit this den of decadence. Man alive! Bourbon Street, Strippers, Dixie Land Jazz, Strippers, famous saloons Like "Pat O'Brien's", Strippers, Cajun food and did I mention.... STRIPPERS!!! Keep in mind I was eighteen years old and if I didn't think about girls at least twenty three hours a day, it was either a slow day or football season. How was my very first visit to the Crescent City? Truthfully, I don't remember very much. I do remember being sick, I mean multi-colored, projectile vomiting sick. So in one of the worlds best cities for dining what was my very first taste of New Orleans cuisine. Sadly, it consisted of a chili dog purchased from a cart on Bourbon Street. Maybe that is what made me sick, or it might have been the booze? Nah, it was the hot dog. I mean I only drank a couple of Zombies, three Hurricanes, a Singapore Sling and a lot of beer. How could that have made me ill? Hmm...should I rethink almost five decades of blaming the chili dog ? No, I will stay with my life time habit of often being wrong, but never uncertain.
Many years later I went to the New Orleans Heritage and Jazz Festival. If you haven't been to this celebration, make plans to go. It is held over two weekends in late April or May. There are more than a dozen stages featuring headline musical talent. The performers are diverse and every genre of music is represented. From Willie Nelson, to top flight Reggae artists, there are gospel choirs, the Neville Brothers, the elite of jazz musicians, and the best of Nashville singers, all are a part of this phenomenal festival. As good as the music is, it may be topped by the food. Restaurants and caterers from all over the country bring their talents to this show. For me, it all about having the chance to eat so much exceptional Cajun food. You can hurt yourself eating and I always set out to do just that. Do not ask if they serve alcohol, I already said it was a New Orleans festival. If there are any businesses in Louisiana that do not sell alcohol, I have yet to run across them. To tell you what an impression the food made on us, I ate in a tent set up by Hebert's restaurant. (the name is pronounced as A-Bears) The main business is located in Houma, Louisiana. When the festival ended I went to Houma and stayed for a week. I ate in Hebert's every day and evening. On Friday nights and all day Saturday they have a Zydeco band and a party as only Cajuns can throw them. It was a blast. My first visit to Houma was over ten years ago, I have gone back almost every year since.
There is just something about all of South Louisiana that I love. It is beyond the partying, the wonderful food and the unique accents. There is great beauty there and an underlying peacefulness that speaks to my soul. On one of our trips I visited an open-air pavilion under a group of cypress trees. The pavilion had been converted to a local bar. It was only about a hundred yards from the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. This is as deep South as it gets. The inland waters of the Gulf were a translucent, smoky green. A local at the bar told me it was from floating seaweed. Looking further out I could see where the water changed to a dark blue. There were brown pelicans diving along an off shore sandbar. I sure hope they had better luck fishing that day than I did. Drinking ice cold Dixie beer and listening to the accent of folks who are more at home in their version of the French language than English made for a memorable afternoon. For that day it was great to just listen to the sea breeze blow through the hanging Spanish moss, watch the water and just enjoy being alive. Maybe that is what the bayou country of Louisiana is to me. A place where time seems to slow down and everything smooths out.
Enough already, On Saturday my fondness for Louisiana disappears. Beat LSU like a drum! Go Gators!
Many years later I went to the New Orleans Heritage and Jazz Festival. If you haven't been to this celebration, make plans to go. It is held over two weekends in late April or May. There are more than a dozen stages featuring headline musical talent. The performers are diverse and every genre of music is represented. From Willie Nelson, to top flight Reggae artists, there are gospel choirs, the Neville Brothers, the elite of jazz musicians, and the best of Nashville singers, all are a part of this phenomenal festival. As good as the music is, it may be topped by the food. Restaurants and caterers from all over the country bring their talents to this show. For me, it all about having the chance to eat so much exceptional Cajun food. You can hurt yourself eating and I always set out to do just that. Do not ask if they serve alcohol, I already said it was a New Orleans festival. If there are any businesses in Louisiana that do not sell alcohol, I have yet to run across them. To tell you what an impression the food made on us, I ate in a tent set up by Hebert's restaurant. (the name is pronounced as A-Bears) The main business is located in Houma, Louisiana. When the festival ended I went to Houma and stayed for a week. I ate in Hebert's every day and evening. On Friday nights and all day Saturday they have a Zydeco band and a party as only Cajuns can throw them. It was a blast. My first visit to Houma was over ten years ago, I have gone back almost every year since.
There is just something about all of South Louisiana that I love. It is beyond the partying, the wonderful food and the unique accents. There is great beauty there and an underlying peacefulness that speaks to my soul. On one of our trips I visited an open-air pavilion under a group of cypress trees. The pavilion had been converted to a local bar. It was only about a hundred yards from the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. This is as deep South as it gets. The inland waters of the Gulf were a translucent, smoky green. A local at the bar told me it was from floating seaweed. Looking further out I could see where the water changed to a dark blue. There were brown pelicans diving along an off shore sandbar. I sure hope they had better luck fishing that day than I did. Drinking ice cold Dixie beer and listening to the accent of folks who are more at home in their version of the French language than English made for a memorable afternoon. For that day it was great to just listen to the sea breeze blow through the hanging Spanish moss, watch the water and just enjoy being alive. Maybe that is what the bayou country of Louisiana is to me. A place where time seems to slow down and everything smooths out.
Enough already, On Saturday my fondness for Louisiana disappears. Beat LSU like a drum! Go Gators!
Monday, October 5, 2009
Football and passion
The football season really warms up this week. The mighty Gators go to beard the Tigers in their den. Two years ago we were in Baton Rouge for the game and the crowd was unbelievable. Over twenty thousand people who were without tickets were there just to party. The Cajuns started drinking about nine in the morning for an eight PM kickoff. We rolled in about seven in the evening and walked around just observing the crowd. Lots of drunken revelers wearing the Purple and Gold, cooking gumbo and screaming various versions of their fight song, "Hold that Tiger." They have a huge Bengal Tiger as a mascot. They have constructed an elaborate facility for him that rivals any thing you would find in the San Diego Zoo or Busch Gardens. It is really first class. Mike the tiger lives well. When the game started, Florida won three and a half quarters of that game, we absolutely dominated them but the game is a full four quarters and when it mattered LSU delivered. On the final drive five times they went for it on fourth and short and all five times they made it work. Lucky or good? Doesn't matter they won, and went on to win the National Championship. After the game we got on the local "express bus" and it did not move for three hours. We reached our hotel room after four in the morning. Are these out of town football trips fun or what?
The plan is to leave Friday morning and drive to New Orleans. Dinner in the Crescent City is always a treat and we are looking forward to great food. New Orleans is a city in decay, Hurricane Katrina made it worse but the City has been caught in a downward spiral for several years. It is a truly dangerous place and you need to always be aware of your surroundings. Having said all of that, it is one of only a handful of cities that is truly distinctive. San Francisco, Key West, Santa Fe and one or two others are true "one of a kind places." Most American cities are so similar that if you unexpectedly woke up in most of them, you would have to ask where you were. New Orleans does not fit the category of cookie cutter towns, it has soul. It is a unique combination of cultures and people. New Orleans has always reminded me of an aging prostitute wearing heavy make up but with the age and mileage lines showing through. I began a love affair with New Orleans almost fifty years ago, but I have reluctantly concluded that I may love my memories of what she was more than the present reality. I hope not, I need my youthful view of "the City that Care Forgot." Just another romantic illusion? probably, but hey, I am full of those.
We are debating whether to remain in New Orleans for the weekend or to go deep into Cajun country over near New Iberia or Houma. We can stay in the city and take a bus with the New Orleans Gator club to and from the game. The other alternative is to get rooms further South into the bayous but closer to the stadium. If we had more time I would definitely spend it in the smaller Cajun towns. You have to experience them to believe it. The Zydeco music, Cajun food and the absolute devotion to having a good time is unmatched. There are many locations where people start cooking and drinking well before the noon hour. They have a band outdoors under giant oak trees and another group inside, all ages from the elderly to toddlers are up dancing to the music made by guitars, wash boards and squeeze boxes. Man do I love it! Those French descendants know something about the value of a good time that too many of us have forgotten.
No matter, you cannot go to that part of the world and not enjoy yourself. If you do, check your pulse.
The plan is to leave Friday morning and drive to New Orleans. Dinner in the Crescent City is always a treat and we are looking forward to great food. New Orleans is a city in decay, Hurricane Katrina made it worse but the City has been caught in a downward spiral for several years. It is a truly dangerous place and you need to always be aware of your surroundings. Having said all of that, it is one of only a handful of cities that is truly distinctive. San Francisco, Key West, Santa Fe and one or two others are true "one of a kind places." Most American cities are so similar that if you unexpectedly woke up in most of them, you would have to ask where you were. New Orleans does not fit the category of cookie cutter towns, it has soul. It is a unique combination of cultures and people. New Orleans has always reminded me of an aging prostitute wearing heavy make up but with the age and mileage lines showing through. I began a love affair with New Orleans almost fifty years ago, but I have reluctantly concluded that I may love my memories of what she was more than the present reality. I hope not, I need my youthful view of "the City that Care Forgot." Just another romantic illusion? probably, but hey, I am full of those.
We are debating whether to remain in New Orleans for the weekend or to go deep into Cajun country over near New Iberia or Houma. We can stay in the city and take a bus with the New Orleans Gator club to and from the game. The other alternative is to get rooms further South into the bayous but closer to the stadium. If we had more time I would definitely spend it in the smaller Cajun towns. You have to experience them to believe it. The Zydeco music, Cajun food and the absolute devotion to having a good time is unmatched. There are many locations where people start cooking and drinking well before the noon hour. They have a band outdoors under giant oak trees and another group inside, all ages from the elderly to toddlers are up dancing to the music made by guitars, wash boards and squeeze boxes. Man do I love it! Those French descendants know something about the value of a good time that too many of us have forgotten.
No matter, you cannot go to that part of the world and not enjoy yourself. If you do, check your pulse.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Shot through the heart
Recently I heard the "the Single Bullet Theory" and for those of you of my generation, no it has nothing to do with the Kennedy Assassination. It has to do with the love of your life. The theory is that everyone has one person out there. A single bullet if you will. And, if you are lucky in life you get to meet that person. And, once you do, you are shot through the heart, and there is nobody else. No matter what happens-death, divorce, infidelity, whatever,-nobody else can ever come close. That is the single bullet theory.
Now it is your turn, What do you think, try to answer as if no one else will ever read your response, otherwise the question and discussion are fatally flawed. Honesty is a hard thing, for me, sometimes damned near impossible. I know that my response to the question has changed over the years. After at least a couple of people tell me what they think, I will tell you my opinion.
I don't know what if any direction I am going to go on the Blog. Several of you have asked that I write more often, some have suggested I not write at all. I am going to try to write several times a week on whatever interest me at the time, I need your feedback, let me know how I am doing and what you think. Who knows, I might even pay attention, but no promises.
Now it is your turn, What do you think, try to answer as if no one else will ever read your response, otherwise the question and discussion are fatally flawed. Honesty is a hard thing, for me, sometimes damned near impossible. I know that my response to the question has changed over the years. After at least a couple of people tell me what they think, I will tell you my opinion.
I don't know what if any direction I am going to go on the Blog. Several of you have asked that I write more often, some have suggested I not write at all. I am going to try to write several times a week on whatever interest me at the time, I need your feedback, let me know how I am doing and what you think. Who knows, I might even pay attention, but no promises.
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